Review and Comparison. Serums: Elizabeth Arden Superstart vs Shiseido Ultimune vs L'Oreal Revitalift

 

MEDYSKIN Glycolic Cream

Azelique Age Refining Treatment Serum

Hypothetically Speaking: Guerlain Abielle Royale Face Treatment Oil

Short reviews. Lancome Genifique Yeux Youth Activating Eye Cream and Renergie Lift Multi-Action Lifting and Firming Cream SPF15

Shiseido Future Solution LX Eye and Lip Contour Regenerating Cream

Alfa Hydrox Oil Free Treatment 10% Glycolic AHA Anti Wrinkle

Naruko am+pm Total Brightening Renewal Treatment 5% Mandelic Acid

Pricing/Packaging:

30ml (1.05fl.oz) for ~25-37$ (naruko usa). This serum comes in a cute opaque white glass bottle (have to admit, I was really drawn to the packaging). Product dispenses through an easily controlled glass pipette. As most Naruko products, it should be used up within 6 months after opening.  

The Body Shop Nutriganics Refreshing Toner

 

Ingredients:

Water, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Benzyl Alcohol, Sucrose Laurate, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Salicylic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Limonene, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Citral, Buddleja Davidii Extract, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Extract, Linalool, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Citronellol, Geraniol, Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Oil, Citric Acid, Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Cymbopogon Flexuosus Oil, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil.

Excellent (only beneficial ingredients, proven research)

Good (mostly beneficial, not extensive research or just not quite outstanding properties)

OK (mostly thickeners, emulsifiers, mild preservatives, pH adjusters, all that is necessary, but not a skincare per se) 
Bad (irritants and anything bad that shouldn't be in a skincare, usually fragrance)

Naruko Raw Job's Tears Supercritical CO2 Pore Minimizing & Brightening Essence

 

Pricing/Packaging:

30ml (1.05fl.oz) for ~33$. US shoppers can find it here. This product comes in a good quality tinted glass pump bottle, which will help keep active ingredients intact. Also I do like this packaging from an aesthetic point of view as well.

MEDYSKIN Vitamin C Beauty Oil

Lanoline Manuka Honey Skin Renew Firming Serum

This is an interesting find from a TJMaxx store. I haven't heard of this company before, but I was drawn to this serum. Though it is not perfect ingredients wise, it was still quite appealing. Apparently, Lanoline is one of the brands under umbrella of New Zealand's Natural Collection company (by Pearson and Craig Cosmetics - here). Despite the name, Lanoline products are actually mostly based on rosehip oil, not lanolin. These cosmetics are paraben and mineral oil free. I've expressed opinion regarding those two ingredient before. They are perfectly safe ingredients to use. Unfortunately there is a scare campaign going around, which has no scientific backing to it. 

Packaging/Pricing:

CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion

Packaging/Pricing:

89ml (3fl.oz) for ~11-16$. Opaque plastic pump bottle will keep ingredients safe from sun and air exposure.

Ingredients:

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Niacinamide, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 6-II, Ceramide 1, Phytosphingosine, Hyaluronic Acid, Cholesterol, Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Potassium Phosphate, Dipotassium Phosphate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Disodium EDTA, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum.

Excellent (very beneficial ingredients, proven research)

Good (mostly beneficial ingredients, not extensive research available or just not quite outstanding properties)

OK (mostly thickeners, emulsifiers, mild preservatives, pH adjusters, all that is necessary formulation wise, but not a skincare per se) 
Bad (anything that shouldn't be in skincare, irritants and fragrance)

Juice Organics Pompeptide Facial Moisturizer

Packaging/Pricing:

This is a drugstore level product, hence the packaging is quite simple opaque white plastic tube. Simple and convenient. You get 50ml (1.7fl.oz) for 15$. This product can be found on Walgreens.com (here), Amazon, Vitacost etc.

[It appears that the packaging of the product and ingredient list is a bit different, depending from what place you purchase the product. I am reviewing the list on the box I've purchased.]

Ingredients:

Vitis Vinifera (White Grape) Juice, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Juice, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Juice, Vegetable Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vit C), Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Juice, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Xanthan Gum, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Oil, Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Seed Extract, Tocopherol (Vit E), Panthenol (Vit B5), Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Extract, Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) Extract, Allantoin, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Prunus Persica (Peach) Extract.

Review and Comparison: MEDYSKIN Argan Oil and Sonoma Naturals Chia Oil Serum

L to R: MEDYSKIN Argan Oil and Sonoma Naturals Chia Oil

Face oils blends recently became very popular in cosmetics industry, though as ingredients, oils have been used in skincare for decades. Pure oils can be for sure a great addition to your routine, especially if you have dry skin. However they do not have miracle properties. Usually any non-fragrant plant oil has fatty acids, which are good for increasing moisture content of the skin and repairing skin protective function. All oils have certain amount of antioxidants and have some anti-inflammatory properties (however, they are weak to medium strength).

There is no single best oil for the skin, despite companies claims. Agran oil isn't any better than boring sunflower oil. Also 40$ oil from Sephora isn't better than 10$ one from IHERB. The quality of them is the same, but you do pay for the brand name.

There are plenty of oil blends on the market, but be careful, lots of them have essential oils in them, than can harm your skin. The worst: any citrus oils (they are photo-toxic, when exposed to UV rays), lavender (very irritating even in small amounts) and mint. If you want aroma-therapeutic properties of essential oils, inhale them, but do not put them on the skin (separate them from your skincare!)

Overall, I encourage anyone to try out this new trend (I am definitely a fan). But do not expect any dramatic results. Oils can't substitute well formulated serum or treatment. So if you have skin concerns like acne, hyper-pigmentation or signs of aging, do not stop using your regular treatments in a favor to oils.

I've found two oils I am reviewing today at TJMaxx. Their official price tag is 48$ each, but I've paid ~8-10$. They both came in brown glass bottles, which I prefer over plastic bottles. And of course, never buy any skin care product in a clear bottle (it will not keep ingredients safe from the sun exposure). Medyskin oil comes with a pump, which is actually easier to use and more air tight than a dropper style bottle, which is a type of packaging that Sonoma Naturals uses. The amount of oil you get is the same for both products - 30ml (1fl.oz).

Excellent (only beneficial ingredients, proven research)

Good (mostly beneficial, not extensive research or just not quite outstanding properties)

OK (mostly thickeners, emulsifiers, mild preservatives, pH adjusters, all that is necessary, but not a skincare per se) 

Bad (irritants and anything bad that shouldn't be in a skincare, usually fragrance)

Skincare: Where to Save and Where to Splurge?

Skincare is a powerful tool, that can keep skin healthy, make you look younger and make you feel great (of course, I am biased, since I am obsessed with cosmetics chemistry, and think skincare is that important). But it can be really confusing for a lot of people. You hope that spending 200$ on a moisturizer will do overnight miracle. But there is only so much that skincare can do. You can not completely erase wrinkles or fade severe hyper-pigmentation. You have to be realistic. Also there is not one miracle secret ingredient, there are multiple great ones that do work to some extent (and most of them are not that expensive). That's why, in my opinion, no skincare product is worth over 50-70$. And even that I would spend only on extremely "loaded" well formulated serum or prescription treatment. These days a lot of affordable brands produce amazing products, and anyone can afford at least the bare minimum. So where to put your money in? I am evaluating categories of products based on what realistically they can do for the skin and what kind of ingredients can be there.

Cleansers/Face Washes

Definitely do not spend too much money here. As much as I love watching UK skin guru Caroline Hirons, I have to disagree that 70$ cleanser can do wonders for the skin. Realistically, all cleansers are mostly different kind of detergents in water or oil base. Doesn't matter in what form they come (gel, cream, foam), their goal is to remove make-up, dirt and excess oils. Even if they do have antioxidants and such, there is just not enough time for them to work. And moreover, it will be damaging to leave any cleanser on the skin for more than few minutes. Save your money, and buy a really good serum. Also a lot of high-end companies charge for "designer" fragrance in their products (you basically pay for the scent, not quality of the product). There is no secret technology, that can make expensive cleanser better than a drugstore one. I would say 5-20$ is a good price range for a cleanser.

Hypothetically  Speaking: Garnier Ultra-Lift Miracle Sleeping Cream

I've decided to start a new series of reviews of the products I haven't bought per se, but I've looked into ingredient lists and do want to talk about those products. Mostly that would be "not worth buying" type of reviews, that I really want to get out there.

This review features a new Garnier anti-aging anti-fatigue night cream. I've come across this sample in a magazine. I am saying right away, this is not a good product, and I do not recommend wasting your money on it.

Algenist Retinol Firming and Lifting Serum

Packaging/Pricing: 

I have nothing against the packaging, which is an opaque pump bottle (the picture above depicts a sample bottle). However, the price is really outrageous. 30ml (1fl.oz) retails for 98$ at Sephora. There is no skincare product in my opinion, that is worth that kind of money. There is limit to what skincare can actually do. My threshold is around 60$. Anything above that you better save towards something like corrective cosmetic procedures.

Ingredients:

Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Algae Exopolysaccharides, Retinol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ceramide 3, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polysorbate 20, Dimethicone PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Sorbitan Laurate, Cetyl Palmitate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Whey Protein, Carbomer, Lactic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lactose, Disodium EDTA, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Mica, CI77891. 

Excellent (only beneficial ingredients, proven research)

Good (mostly beneficial, not extensive research or just not quite outstanding properties)

OK (mostly thickeners, emulsifiers, mild preservatives, pH adjusters, all that is necessary, but not a skincare per se) 

Bad (irritants and anything bad that shouldn't be in a skincare, usually fragrance)

Ingredients Discussion:

 

MEDYSKIN 7 Day Facelift Retinol Serum

MEDYSKIN Line Eraser Eye Serum