Review & Comparison: Naruko Apple Seed And Tranexamic Acid black spots and lines defying mask & NRK essential Mandarin Orange and Pineapple pore refining mask

Let me start by saying that I have somewhat love/hate relationship with Naruko products going on. I love their luxurious feeling on the skin, I adore their scents, I am fan of their vitamins and plant extracts based  formulations, I think packaging is very cute. BUT! They often include irritating essential oils in products, which smell beyond amazing, but irritate skin, like nothing else. So I always go back to Naruko products, but I browse for occasional gems without problematic ingredients.

These two masks you can find on Naruko website  (here) or through various asian beauty sellers like sasa.com. The set of 10 masks is 32$ for Apple seed and Tranexamic acid mask and 26$ for Mandarin Orange and Pineapple mask.  Sometimes you can find them individually. Both masks are very moist with enough serum to actually spread to your neck and chest areas. They both smell very nice: Apple seed one like lavender oil and Orange one has a fruity sweet scent. I personally prefer more refined scent of lavender.

Company suggests to apply mask on clean skin for 10-15 min, then you can follow with your regular skincare. I find these masks to be very moist and slimy, so whether you have to wait for 10-15 minutes after you are done with them (for them to get fully absorbed) or tissue of the excess. Actually, I tend to splash my face with water, since ingredients already had time to penetrate skin, and it is too much to deal with so much extra product.

 

Ingredients:

Apple seed and Tranexamic Mask: 

Active ingredients: Tranexamic Acid 3%

Other: Water, Glycerin, Xanthan Gum, Algin, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Triethanolamine, Snow Fungus Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20,  Hydroxyethylcellulose, Tocopherol, Apple Seed Extract, Allantoin, Galactoarabinan, Vitamin A Palmitate, Ellagic Acid, Phytoferulin Complex (Kalanchoe Extract, Licorice Root Extract, Alpine Scullcap Extract, Masterwort Leaf Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Alps Wormwood Extract, Leontopodium Extract, Calendula Flower Extract, Chamomile Flower Extract, Green Tea Leaf Extract), Essential Oil of Lavender, Chamomile, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Alpha-Arbutin.

Mandarin Orange and Pineapple Mask: Water, 1,3-Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Algin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Mandarin Orange Fruit Extract, Zinc PCA, PEG-8 Isostearate, Mushroom Extract, Dryopteris Filix-Mas Leaf Extract, Allantoin, Bromelain, Peppermint oil, Fragrance.  

Excellent (only beneficial ingredients, proven research)

Good (mostly beneficial, not extensive research or just not quite outstanding properties)
OK (mostly thickeners, emulsifiers, mild preservatives, pH adjusters, all that is necessary, but not a skincare per se)
Bad (irritants and such)

 

The difference in ingredient lists is rather big. First one
is packed with antioxidant rich plant extracts, tranexamic acid (to inhibit melanin production to lighten spots), as well as Vit A, C and E, allantoin (anti irritant), ellagic acid (which is an amazing anti aging ingredient), hyaluronic acid and glycerin (to repair skin protecting barrier). I have two issues though. First, lavender oil. So, so bad for the skin. One of the worst irritants. Second, most of plant extract are lower on the list than phenoxyethanol (preservative). It means, whether they are in quite low concentration, or there is a lot of preservative added here.

Second mask has much less bells and whistles. The only really notable ingredient is zinc PCA which can protect collagen from enzyme that damages it. But still it is rather low on the list. Also this formulation has 3 offending ingredients (peppermint and orange are really well known irritants).

Verdict:

I would completely pass on Pineapple & Orange mask. Despite having lavender oil, Apple Seed and Tranexamic acid mask has a lot to offer. People with sensitive skin probably should stay away from it. Overall I wouldn't recommend to use it very often, but, let's say, biweekly or once a month it would be amazing. Personally I don't think it can really lighten spot being used only once in a while. Better consider to invest in some kind of daily treatment with Vit C, hydroquinone or licorice extract. 

Apple seed and Tranexamic Mask 3,5-4 out of 5.

Mandarin Orange and Pineapple Mask 2 out of 5.