November 13, 2014

Andalou Naturals Age Defying Kit



ANDALOU naturals brand is my current obsession. I've been trying lots of their products, and though some of them do contain essential oils, there are many products where they are present in small amounts, and otherwise the formulations are really good. The products are based around fruit stem cell science, which I am not really buying into as of now. I feel they are more plant extracts, than animal like stem cells really. But that aside, other ingredients used in the products are well researched and amazing for the skin.

I like to go for starter kits in the skin care. You get the feel for the brand and do not commit to full size products you may not end up liking. Andalou brand offers four different lines (brightening, clarifying, age defying and sensitive), and each line has a starter kit. I quickly ran through ingredients in those kits and found that age defying kit seems the best one. In general, I never stick to one line of products from a brand, I mix and match to my skin concerns and liking, and I usually recommend that to everyone. But when you do not know where to start, to get a sample pack is a good idea. You can purchase a kit for around 15-20$. I've got mine on IHERB.com as usual (here). The set comes with five deluxe size products (enough for roughly 2 weeks).
  • Apricot Probiotic Cleansing Milk 24ml (0.8fl.oz). Full size: 178ml (6fl.oz) for ~13$.

  • Blossom + Leaf Toning Refresher 15ml (0.5fl.oz). Full size: 178ml (6fl.oz) for ~13$.

  • BioActive 8 Berry Fruit Enzyme Mask 30ml (1fl.oz). Full size: 50ml (1.7fl.oz) for ~15$.

  • Super Goji Peptide Perfecting Cream 12 ml (0.4fl.oz). Full size: 50ml (1.7fl.oz) for ~25$.

  • Resveratrol Q10 Night Repair Cream 12 ml (0.4fl.oz). Full size: 50ml (1.7fl.oz) for ~25$.


Apricot Probiotic Cleansing Milk 


Aloe Barbadensis Juice, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil
, Vegetable Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Oil, Prunus Dulcis (Almond) Milk, Glyceryl Monolaurate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Probiotic Complex (Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Polymnia Sonchifolia Root, Maltodextrin and Lactobacillus), Fruit Stem Cells (Malus Domestsica, Solar Vitis) and BioActive 8 Berry Complex, Resveratrol, Ubiquinone (CoQ10), Vitis Vinifera (Grape Seed) Polyphenols, Allantoin, Tocopherol (Vit E), Mangifera Indica (Mango) Butter, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Extract, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) and Borago Officinalis (Borage) Oils, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Agathosma Capensis (Buchu) Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil.

Nice, gentle, creamy, non-foamy cleanser. Leaves skin clean, but not overly striped. Amazing scent. It feels like you are rubbing fresh apricots on the face. Ingredient list is impressive, but would do nothing for your skin, since it is a cleanser. Despite the fact that it does have essential oils (but they are at the end, and it doesn't stay on the face), I am planning to buy a full size product. 4,5 out of 5.


Blossom + Leaf Toning Refresher 


Aloe Barbadensis Juice, Panthenol (Vit B5), Tocopherol (Vit E), Lauric Acid, Fruit Stem Cells (Malus Domestsica, Solar Vitis) and BioActive 8 Berry Complex, Resveratrol, Ubiquinone (CoQ10), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vit C), Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos), Hibiscus Sabdariffa and Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Extracts, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus Aurantium (Petitgrain) Oil, Geranium Maculatum Oil.

Nice  ingredient list with vitamins and good plant extracts as well as coenzime Q10 and resveratrol (strong anti-inflammatory), but there are two essential oils at the end. And unfortunately the scent of geranium is very noticeable (and unpleasant to my taste), which makes me suspect it is present in much higher concentration than I would like. The consistency of this refresher (a toner really) is very watery, more refreshing than moisturizing. I am not liking this product that much. 3,5 out of 5.

BioActive 8 Berry Fruit Enzyme Mask


Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry), Aloe Barbadensis and Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juices, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil, Vegetable Glycerin, Pectin, Cyamopsis Tetragonolobus (Guar) Gum, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) and Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extracts, Fruit Stem Cells (Malus Domestsica, Solar Vitis) and BioActive 8 Berry Complex, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn), Rosa Canina (Rosehip) and Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Oils, Manuka Honey, Papain, Tocopherol (Vit E), Resveratrol, Ubiquinone (CoQ10), Lecithin, Camellia Sinensis (White Tea), Hibiscus Sabdariffa and Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos) Extracts, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil.

This is probably the worst product from this set. It features lemon extract very high on the list of ingredients, which is a strong irritant and has no positive properties for the skin. Papain, which is enzyme from papaya, is also quite irritating for a lot of people, and exfoliating properties are questionable. Product also contains orange oil. All citrus oils and extracts are phototoxic, they react when exposed to the sun, irritating skin incredibly. Even though other ingredients are excellent, unfortunately they would not compensate the irritation you would get from those three offenders. Also full size product has jar packaging, making it completely useless. On the other hand, when using it, everything is appealing about the product. It looks like pink gel. It is very light and absorbs quickly, and also has very pleasant fruity scent. It leaves skin moisturized, though I haven't notices results exfoliation wise. I have not experienced rush or redness when using it, but it was highly possible. 2 out of 5.


Super Goji Peptide Perfecting Cream


Aloe Barbadensis Juice, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) and Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oils, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Fruit Stem Cells (Malus Domestsica, Solar Vitis) and BioActive 8 Berry Complex, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Glycopeptide, Cucumis Sativa (Cucumber) Extract, Glyceryl Monolaurate, Resveratrol, Ubiquinone (CoQ10), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vit C), Bisabolol, Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopherol (Vit E), Panthenol, Allantoin, Cyamopsis Tetragonolobus (Guar) Gum, Borago Officinalis (Borage) and Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oils, Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) and Hibiscus Sabdariffa Extracts, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Agathosma Capensis (Buchu) Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil.

This light weight cream features blend of plant oils (sunflower, shea, jojoba, borage, evening primrose), vitamins (C, E, B5), as well as numerous anti-inflammatory, skin-repairing, antioxidant and calming ingredients (cucumber, goji, white tea extracts, allantoin, coenzyme Q10, resveratrol, hyaluronic acid). Also it contains "Fruit Stem Cells and BioActive 8 Berry Complex", which as I mentioned above, I treat as plant extracts with some antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Unfortunately it also does feature two highly fragrant and irritating essential oils (buchu and orange), but they are at the bottom of ingredient list. I do really like this light gel-cream, but people with sensitive skin should probably pass on it. I would not expect wonders from it, but this loaded formula should keep your skin in a good condition (except the essential oils). I do enjoy using this mini tube, but I'm not purchasing full size, because it comes in a jar (what a disappointment!). 4 out of 5 (2 out of 5 for a full size product in a jar).

Resveratrol Q10 Night Repair Cream


Aloe Barbadensis Juice, Vegetable Glycerin, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Butter, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil, Lauric Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Fruit Stem Cells (Malus Domestsica, Solar Vitis) and BioActive 8 Berry Complex, Resveratrol, Ubiquinone (CoQ10), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vit C), Hydrolyzed Wheat and Hydrolyzed Soy Proteins, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Glycopeptide, Fagus Sylvatica (Beech) Extract, Tocopherol (Vit E), Linum Usitatissimum (Flax) Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Borago Officinalis (Borage), Persea Gratissima (Avocado), Rosa Canina (Rosehip) and Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oils, Olive Squalane, Camellia Sinensis (White Tea), Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos) and Hibiscus Sabdariffa Extracts, Allantoin, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Butter, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Symphytum Officinale (Comfrey) Extract.

This product is very similar to the previous one. It is a bit richer in texture and more moisturising, but still it is not heavy and absorbs really quick into the skin. Beneficial ingredients: plant oils (cocoa, mango, sunflower, borage, flax, avocado, rosehip, evening primrose oils), vitamins (C and E), barrier repairing/skin-identical ingredients (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, plant oils), other anti-inflammatory, antioxidant ingredients (fruit stem cells, berry complex, goji, white tea extracts, resveratrol, Q10). I personally really like using products with resveratrol, so this one is definitely a winner for me. This cream also includes lauric acid, which can be beneficial for acne prone skin (it can control acne causing bacteria). There are few ingredients, that does not have as strong positive properties as they claim to have, or just there are not enough research backing them up (hibiscus, rooibos, beech extracts, hydrolyzed proteins). But they shouldn't bring any harm to the skin. Still there is a bad product included, which is comfrey extract. Personally I do not think it is as irritating as lavender or citrus oils, but it is still an irritant. Unfortunately, full size product comes in a jar, so I will not be purchasing it. 4,5 out of 5 (2 out of 5 for full size).


Excellent (only beneficial ingredients, proven research)
Good (mostly beneficial, not extensive research or just not quite outstanding properties)
OK (mostly thickeners, emulsifiers, mild preservatives, pH adjusters, all that is necessary, but not a skincare per se) 
Bad (irritants and anything bad that shouldn't be in a skincare, usually fragrance)

Verdict:


I do recommend this kit. I would skip the fruit enzyme mask though. Unfortunately, two creams that in my opinion are worth repurchasing, are sold in jars. So the products in the kit got higher rating then their full size counterparts. The biggest advantage is that the products are loaded with amazing ingredients (not just two or three, but ten to twenty). You would have to pay 3-5 times more for something like this at the high end cosmetics counter. Still they all do contain some amount of irritants, so proceed with caution.

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