June 24, 2015

Sephora Favorites Sun Safety Kit Face Sunscreens Reviews Part I (bad sunscreens)Amorepacific, Clarins, Ole Henriksen





This is a follow up post with reviews of sunscreens from Sephora Sun Safety Kit released for summer 2015. I've talked a bit about the content of the kit and my initial thoughts here. I've decided to combine reviews of facial sunscreens together, instead of doing individual posts about each of them. I will start with the worst one going in ascending order to the best.


How to read ingredients:

Excellent (very beneficial ingredients, proven research)
Good (mostly beneficial ingredients, not extensive research available or just not quite outstanding properties)
OK (mostly thickeners, emulsifiers, mild preservatives, pH adjusters, all that is necessary formulation wise, but not a skincare per se) 
Bad (anything that shouldn't be in skincare, irritants and fragrance)


The Worst

Amorepacific Natural Protector SPF 30 (65$ for 60ml)


Sunscreen Value:
Octocrylene 8%, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 4.5%
Purely chemical sunscreen. One of the main reasons I rate this product as the worst is that it does not provide a broad spectrum protection from UV rays. All three ingredients are only UVB filters.

Ingredients:
Water, Butylene Glycol, Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane Peg-100 Stearate, Methoxy Peg-114/Polyepsilon Caprolactone, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Aluminum Stearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyacrylate-13, Alumina, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Stearic Acid, Polyisobutene, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium Edta, Polysorbate 20, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Fragrance, Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492).

This formulation has barely any skin beneficial ingredients. I strongly recommend to choose a sunscreen with a nice array of antioxidants. They can give additional boost to your sun protection, by taking care on site of some of the free radical damage, that even the best of the sunscreens let through.

Fragrance:
Very heavily fragranced product (can cause irritation).

Texture/Wear:
Light cream texture, which can be a bit too heavy for oily skin. This sunscreen feels very nice on the skin, blends and absorbs relatively quick.

Verdict:
Not recommended. Will not protect from sun damage. Too fragranced. Has no ingredients to improve skin.

Not so good

Clarins UV Plus Anti-Pollution Multi-Protection Broad Spectrum SPF 50 (42$ for 50ml)

 

Sunscreen Value:
Titanium Dioxide 10.9%, Homosalate 4%, Octocrylene 4%, Oxybenzone 1.5%
Mixture of chemical and physical sunscreen actives. Provides a broad spectrum protection.

Ingredients:
Water, Dimethicone, Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Nylon-12, Peg-12 Dimethicone, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Peg/Ppg-18/18 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium Edta, Sanicula Europaea Extract, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Bud Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cucumismelo (Melon) Fruit Extract, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.

All beneficial ingredients are in the second half of the ingredient list, after preservative and fragrance (will not have much effect on the skin). This formula also has alcohol and fragrance too high on the ingredient list.

Fragrance:
Extremely fragranced product. I felt my skin itching when using it.

Texture/Wear:
This is a very liquidy lotion, that can work for most skin type. Dries to almost slightly powdery texture.

Verdict:
Not recommended. Though it provides a high broad spectrum protection. But being so heavily fragranced and lacking enough of antioxidants, it can not be beneficial for the skin.

Ole Henriksen Total Truth Eye Cream SPF 15   (45$ for 15g)

 

Sunscreen Value:
Avobenzone 2%, Octinoxate 4%, Octisalate 4%
Purely chemical sunscreen. Usually, physical sunscreen is less irritating for the eyes. I personally would stay away from chemical sunscreen actives in my eye sunscreen (but if your do not have an adverse reaction to chemical sunscreen around your eyes, there is no reason to avoid this kind of product). Also SPF 15 is not considered enough for a solid day protection these days. Now it is recommended to use at least SPF 20-25 for daily wear.

Ingredients: 
Water, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Glycery Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Ceteareth-20, Phenoxyethanol, Algae Extract, Pullulan, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Allantoin, Volubilis (Mountain Peanut) Seed Oil, Schinus Terebinthifolius Seed Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Alcohol, Lecithin.


This is a good formulation, that features a nice range of antioxidants and moisturizing ingredients, and barely any irritants (alcohol being second to last ingredient does not pose any problem). However this cream comes in a jar, which will not be able to keep the formulation safe from sun and air exposure, making this product useless.

Fragrance:
It is an excellent fragrance free formulation.

Texture/Wear:
Very emollient and silky cream, fells very pleasant on the skin. It is definitely targeted towards normal to dry skin types.

Verdict:
Not recommended. I am quite sad to give such a rating, since the composition of this product is very good. If this product will ever be repackaged in a tube, I will be recommending it (however only for the winter time, since the SPF rating is only 15). Also I have to mention that it is quite an expensive product, especially since you get only 15g of it. As it is, it is not worth your money.

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